We welcome all photographers to join and participate in its events and by sharing knowledge to improve and enhance photographic skills. Our club aims to mentor, support, and educate its members, and to foster skills and passion for photography in a collegiate and enjoyable atmosphere.
Meeting Address only: Uniting Church Hall – Corner of Boundary Road and Bellamy Street. Parking is on a grassed block of land opposite the church in Bellamy St., and the entrance we use is facing Bellamy St.
For information on the club please view this link.
Beyond Silhouettes: Advanced Techniques for Backlit Photos
Posted: 03/17/2025
Backlighting in photography can either be a challenging situation or a golden opportunity to create some truly special and striking images. When a light source is directly facing the camera from behind the subject, it can create silhouettes, which are beautiful in their own right. However, with the right techniques, you can go beyond silhouettes to capture detailed, dynamic, and engaging photographs that make the most of this unique lighting condition.
Today’s post is based on concepts from the Photography Lighting Cheat Sheets which are currently 80% off for a Winter’s Last Light sale.
Backlit photo captured by Enrique Jimenez
Here’s how you can master backlighting by employing various techniques like metering, exposure compensation, using reflectors, and incorporating artificial light.
Understanding Metering Modes
Metering is your camera’s way of deciding how much light needs to hit the sensor to make a properly exposed photograph. In backlighting situations, metering becomes crucial because the bright background can trick the camera’s sensor into underexposing the scene, leaving your subject dark and undefined.
Spot Metering: This mode allows you to meter a very small part of your frame. By pointing this spot at your subject, you can ensure that the camera exposes for the subject and not the bright background.
Center-Weighted Metering: This is useful when your subject is in the center of the frame. It gives more priority to the exposure in the middle of the frame, balancing the bright background with the need to illuminate the subject.
Evaluative Metering: Modern cameras are quite sophisticated in this mode, considering the entire frame but giving precedence to the autofocus point. It can be a good starting point, but always review your shots and adjust as necessary.
Photo captured by Tino Rischawy
Exposure Compensation
Even with smart metering, you might need to override your camera’s decisions. That’s where exposure compensation comes in. It allows you to dial in a bias towards overexposure or underexposure.
In backlight situations, dialing in a positive exposure compensation value can help illuminate your subject more clearly without overexposing the background too much. Start with +1 or +2 stops of compensation and adjust based on the results you’re getting.
Using HDR
HDR (High Dynamic Range) photography is a game-changer for backlit scenes, allowing you to capture a more balanced exposure across your image. By merging multiple shots taken at different exposure levels, HDR reveals details lost in shadows and highlights, creating a final photo that closely mirrors the natural range of human vision. This technique is particularly effective in backlighting situations, ensuring that your subject is well-lit without sacrificing the ambient beauty of the background. Whether you’re dealing with harsh sunlight or subtle backlight, HDR can bring out the nuances of your scene, providing a richer, more detailed image.
Using Reflectors
Reflectors can be a simple and effective solution to combat the challenges of backlighting. They bounce the existing light back onto the face or side of the subject, filling in shadows and reducing contrast.
Choose a reflector size based on your subject; a larger reflector for groups or full-body shots, and a smaller one for portraits.
Silver or white reflectors are versatile for most situations, adding light without changing color temperature.
Introducing Artificial Light
When natural light isn’t enough to illuminate your subject in a backlight situation, introducing artificial light can be a game-changer.
On-Camera Flash: Use it to fill in shadows on your subject. Dialing down the flash power can provide just enough light to brighten the subject without looking unnatural.
Off-Camera Flash: For more control and a more natural look, use an off-camera flash. Position it opposite the main light source to fill in shadows effectively.
Continuous Lights: LED panels or other continuous light sources can also be used to illuminate the subject, allowing you to see the effect in real-time.
Photo captured by Sonnie Hiles
Summary:
Backlighting doesn’t have to limit your photography to silhouettes. With the right approach, you can create images that are rich in detail and emotion, making the most of this unique lighting condition. Experiment with these techniques, and you’ll find that backlighting can offer a new dimension to your photography, turning potential challenges into opportunities for beautiful, dramatic compositions. Whether you’re a seasoned photographer or just starting, mastering these techniques can elevate your photography from ordinary to extraordinary.
Whether you’re a photographer or someone who works in designing and printing, you must’ve come across the terms Dots Per Inch (DPI) and Pixels Per Inch (PPI) countless number of times. But do you understand them correctly? Don’t feel shy if you don’t because a lot of people out there get them wrong.
Photo captured by Bank Phrom; ISO 1250, f/4.0, 1/50s.
DPI vs PPI
Many use the terms DPI and PPI interchangeably and that is where all the confusion begins. It is necessary to understand that while DPI has to do with the number of dots a printer can print in one inch of the physical media, PPI is the number of pixels that an image has per inch.
An important thing to keep in mind here again is that dots are not the same as pixels. Dots exist in physical form while pixels are limited to the digital form of the image.
You can also alter the PPI you want your image to have using software such as Photoshop but DPI for a printer has a maximum limit. The maximum DPI of a printer is restricted by the hardware it’s using. For instance, while inkjet printers can have a resolution ranging from 300 to 720 DPI, laser printers can go anywhere from 600 to 2,400 DPI.
Wait, there’s one more thing you need to know about PPI. It is also used to measure the resolution of physical displays such as monitors and your phone’s screen. In this case, PPI represents the number of pixels that the screen has in every inch.
Photo captured by DesignClass; ISO 100, f/25.0, 1/20s.
How to Use DPI and PPI in Your Work
As a photographer or a designer, you have no control over DPI. But you need to understand that using a printer that has higher DPI capability with a high quality paper can produce very high quality and detailed prints. But again, it’s not always necessary to print using high DPI printers.
If it’s something that has to be held on the hands, like a photo album for instance, then the printer will use a printer with a high DPI, somewhere in the range of 300 DPI. On the other hand, if its something that is to be viewed from a great distance, like a billboard, then the image would look fine even when printed at 30 DPI. It is best you consult with your printer to figure out your DPI needs.
When it comes to choosing what PPI to work with, it is all up to you – the photographer or the designer. If the image that you’re working with will live online only in the digital platform, then rest assured that the PPI you use does not matter. Whether an image is 100 PPI or 1000 PPI, as long as you’re viewing it on a screen, it will appear exactly the same in both cases as the pixel size on a display is constant. The file size in the latter case will however be significantly larger (unnecessarily).
It is only when printing your image that your PPI setting will matter the most. When you choose to have a higher PPI setting, you’re essentially cramming up a lot of pixels into the image. Unlike displays where the pixel size is contant, printers can print pixels of varying sizes which means when printing a image with high PPI, the printer can print finer pixels resulting in a more detailed image.
On the other hand, if you print an image with a very low PPI setting, you will see that you can make out the pixels in the image. That’s what we called “pixelated”, an image that doesn’t appear sharp and detailed.
Photo captured by Joshua Fuller; ISO 500, f/5.0, 1/50s.
Conclusion:
Your PPI setting is irrelevant if you have no intention of printing the image. Your monitor and other displays don’t even consider the PPI information on the image. The printer on the other hand will use that information to determine how detailed the print should be.
With this information, I really hope you will not get confused between the two.
The Hierarchy of Compositional Elements in Photography
Posted: 04/15/2025
As photographers, we are storytellers, using the language of visual elements to translate the three-dimensional world onto a two-dimensional plane. Understanding the art of composition is crucial to capturing compelling images that narrate our unique perspective of the world. It’s like arranging the notes of a melody to create a harmonious song.
Photo captured by Lachlan Gowen; f/9, 0.3s, ISO 100
However, the concept of an “order” to follow when considering the elements of composition isn’t carved in stone. Each scene, each subject, and each moment brings unique aspects that might prompt us to prioritize one compositional element over another. But for the sake of learning and practicing, it’s helpful to establish a guideline or a hierarchy of these elements. Let’s break down the sequence of considerations you might follow when composing a shot.
1. Vision and Intent
Before delving into the technical aspects of composition, start with the question: “What is my intent with this photograph?” Your vision is the driving force behind your composition. Do you want to highlight a certain emotion, convey a story, or just capture the beauty of the scene? Understanding your purpose will guide your use of compositional elements.
2. Framing and Placement of the Subject
Once you’re clear on your intent, consider the placement of your subject within the frame. The Rule of Thirds is a widely accepted principle to guide this step. The idea is to divide the frame into nine equal parts with two equally spaced horizontal and vertical lines, then place the key elements of your scene along these lines, or at their intersections.
3. Use of Leading Lines
Leading lines are a powerful tool to guide the viewer’s eye towards the subject or a point of interest. These lines can be anything – a pathway, a stream, architectural elements, or even a gaze. The key is to identify these lines in your scene and align your shot to leverage them.
4. Depth and Perspective
Creating a sense of depth adds dimension and realism to your photographs. Play with elements like foreground, middle ground, and background. Use perspective and depth of field to create a three-dimensional effect in a two-dimensional medium.
5. Balance and Symmetry
Ensure that your image feels balanced, which can be achieved both symmetrically and asymmetrically. Symmetry provides a sense of harmony and proportion, while asymmetry, when balanced correctly, can make your image more dynamic and interesting.
Photo captured by James Best
6. Patterns and Textures
Patterns and textures can add a rich layer of depth to your photographs. They can either be the subject itself or complement the primary subject. Patterns provide a sense of rhythm, while textures can evoke tactile sensations making the image more immersive.
7. Lighting and Shadows
Lighting is not just an illuminator, but a storyteller. It can dramatically change the mood, texture, and tone of your photograph. The interplay of light and shadow is crucial for highlighting your subject, creating depth, and revealing textures.
8. Color and Contrast
Lastly, consider the color scheme and contrast. Colors can evoke emotional responses and set the mood. Contrast, on the other hand, can draw attention to your subject, guide the viewer’s eye, and add drama to your image.
Remember, while this hierarchy can be a helpful guide, it’s not a set of rigid rules. Composition is as much about intuition and personal style as it is about guidelines. The more you shoot, the more you develop an instinct for composing impactful images. So grab your camera, and let the world be your canvas!
